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Renault teknik(cruise control yakında)

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dolaşırken cruise control olmayan megane II'lere bir kaç basit eklemeyle cruise
control eklenebildiğini okudum.

yazılanlara göre sistem çalışıyormuş

detayları daha sonra yazacağım

Hier mal aktuell meine Umbauerfahrung:

Wer eine exakte Anleitung braucht, der guckt unten bzw. DIE , die ich aus anderer Quelle habe . Der Einbau ist kinderleicht wenn man weiß wie, und das wird alles beschrieben und ich kann nur dazu raten !

Den bestellten ori. Renault Schalter für 9,39 Euro (plus MWst) abgeholt und innerhalb 30 Sekunden eingeklickt.

Lötkolben gegriffen und 3x Taster mit je:

1x 100 Ohm
1x 0 Ohm (" Kurzschluss" - Ohne Widerstand )
1x 270 Ohm

bestückt. Alles paralell aufgelegt zu den Beiden unter dem Lenkrad abgegriffenen Kabeln. In Ruhe ist der Kreis Offen !
Je nachdem welchen Widerstand man nun übermittelt ruft man

( "Recall" bei 900 Ohm ) Habe ich nicht bestückt !

"Schneller" und "Langsamer" bei den Werten 100 oder 270 ab .

Abschalten ist 0 Ohm , profan Kurzschluß ,genau das erledigen Brems- oder Kupplungsschalter auch.

Ein "Schaltplan" erübrigt sich, die Widerstände werden einfach nur jeweils (was man gerade möchte) auf die 2 Kabel unterm Lenkrad ( Rosa und Braunweiß) aufgetastet . Wichtig ist auch daß Ihr die ROTEN Kabel-Vampir-verbinder nehmt und auch ein ähnlich dickes Kabel zum weitergehen (o,5mm2) sonst haut es mit dem Kontaktieren nicht hin, die blauen sind für dickere Kabel gedacht !!

Im Prinzip reicht ein einziger Widerstand mit Taster mit 100 oder 270 Ohm zum Starten des Tempomaten.

Alles parallel zusammenrödeln und dann den jeweiligen Wert tasten.
Wer einen Plan braucht bekommt Ihn selbstverständlich von mir .

Der Knaller ist der daß es ohne Softwareupdate in der Werkstatt bestens läuft !

Mit einer Einschränkung , ohne den Update habe ich aber keine Anzeige/Meldung auf dem BC , der BC "weiß nicht das ein Tempomat eingebaut ist" , aber er tut alles was man Ihm sagt .

Die 3 Taster sind jetzt wie folgt belegt: Links = Schneller, Mitte = AUS Rechts = Langsamer / Auf Recall habe ich verzichtet = Schnickschnack

http://home.arcor.de/heiko.fettkoether/bilder/temp1.jpg

http://home.arcor.de/heiko.fettkoether/bilder/temp2.jpg

home.arcor.de

Aktuelle News, Schlagzeilen und Berichte aus aller Welt - Arcor.de

http://home.arcor.de/heiko.fettkoether/data/tempomat.pdf

War heute morgen "Freischalten" lassen. Hmmm, gefiel mir vorher irgendwie besser, weil:

Jetzt leuchtet das grüne Tempomatsymbol im Tacho wenn der Hauptschalter AN ist.

Beim Start des Tempomat zeigt das Display die eingestellte Speed, 30mm neben der Tachoanzeige (Doppelt hält besser für Blinde ?! ), anstelle des Momentanverbrauches. Um den wieder zu bekommen muß man 1x auf den BC tasten.
Wenn ich abschalte per Taste oder Pedal steht da Memory xx km/h die ganze weitere Zeit. Wer will das wissen ?

Vorher lief der Tempomat dezent im "Hintergrund", ohne grüne Lampe und ohne Extra-unnötige Geschwindigkeits- und Memoryanzeige.
Das nur für Leute die nachrüsten wollen und sich überlegen ob sie freischalten lassen oder nicht.

Ich würde jederzeit wieder nachrüsten aber nicht wieder Freischalten lassen.

MfG
Heiko

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tercüme etmeye vaktim olmadı
yeni bilgileri daha sonra ekleyeceğim

Good, I have JUGOSISIMAS NOTICAS FOR ALL the JURISDICTIONAL ones So I hope that it serves this brico explanation to you/;) , that could not have been done without the aid of much people of several forums: it praises:: it praises:: it praises:

] (*,)](*,)](*,) TAKEN CARE OF WITH THE BRICK THAT IS ENORMOUS! ] (*,)](*,)](*,)

Or I have my speed governor working, WITHOUT TOUCHING the SWITCHBOARD (with all rolls of guarantee and covering the backs that that entails), WITHOUT MAKING NO INVENTION STRANGE, only following the indication that I read in another forum (lagunaII or meganeII, nonmemory), of which the regulating limitor/or is activated in ALL the cars of makes, but what it is not activated he is info in screen.

I take advantage of to ask permission the users who have shared knowledge or photos with us, because hare use of some of them in this brico;)

Good because I explain everything again from the beginning so that everything is compiled and clearly.

1. - All we have the regulator/limitor assets
2. - Only those that have paid for that reason, is to them info of the R/L in screen and have the button seller in the steering wheel
3. - All we have the preinstallation of the cable where the commutator of the R/L together with with tape is connected the cable of the rheostat that regulates the lights of the salpicadero (next to the regulation of height of the lights)

Here you see an example of have removed the cable and where we will place the button that we buy. Only tapeworm by hand the button of overturns it to test;) and I removed it by huequecillo from the fuses, I repeat for tests
http://www.forocoches.com/galeria/data/4291/18779cable.jpeg?5833

4. - Those that have ESP/ASR have the embellecedor of that zone of the car with space for 2 bellboys of functions, own of the ESP and the one of the R/L, reason why € will not have to buy that embellecedora cover (11 embellecora Facade +/-, ref: 82 00 079 020)

Here teneis the example of both embelledores, with the 2 hollows for bellboys or without them.
WITHOUT
http://www.forocoches.com/galeria/data/4291/18779reguladorsin.jpeg

WITH
http://www.forocoches.com/galeria/data/4291/18779regulador.jpeg

5. - We will have to do to us with a commutator R/L and to connect it in its cable with its embellecedor. (regulating commutator/limitadore of speed +/- 8€, ref: 82 00 107 841) This part is very very easy to install/to change and I do not believe that they make lack don't mention it photos nor explanations but.

We already have the concluded part To, we have taken control of part of the materials and we have installed them. You remember that in the screen any indication will not aparecedrá and until we do not have the 4 pulsers working (following point. Bellboys of: +, -, Cancel and recall) it will seem that the regulator neither works nor na: nono1: , but case is hacedme there: cool:.

6. - You consider as much that the regulating function as the limitor one is necessary to activate it once the car is in march. For example we activated it, we used it and we left it activated (button in a position or another one), we extinguished the car and we return to ignite it… it will not work, it happens just like with the automatic windshield wiper, it is necessary to clear it and to return to put it;)

Now the part comes from the button seller. We can change the steering wheel, that counts between 350 and 400 € but we want to put the regualador to him of the expensive form, estariais not reading this right now reason why we are going to see since we take control of the cheap button seller;)

The comfortable form but is to use the control of the radio that comes in the block of the steering wheel, with small modifications already we will have it ready, but it is necessary to have something of experience with the soldering iron and we needed a few pieces that will cost to us much neither to buy nor to find. Tb we can make a bononera external and stick it of the salpicadero anywhere. Podriamos to use for example joystick like the one of rear-view regulation of and placing it anywhere that was left monkey, or some palanquita of 4 positions or what is. Circuitillo that there is to do would be used for any control that quisieramos to put so I do not believe that it supposed much problem.

Then since one has commented already before they need to us:

1 resistance of 820 ohms to establish/to raise speed (VOL+ of the control)
1 resistance of 220 ohms to lower speed (VOL- of the control)
1 resistance of 68 or 100 Ohms for Recall (MUTE of the control)
1 small piece of leg of resistance for does run bridge for CANCEL (to change way, solitary button of the inferior song of the control)
1 cable piece (of the red and black type of loudspeakers not very heavy for example), about 40 cm., to take the functions until the cable of the car that take info of the regulator.

NOTE: I used of first hour the resistance that they recommend of 68 Ohms, but I did not work to me and towards strange things: - k. I put the one of 100 Ohms and everything like the silk, is the only modification by failure that I have had to do, so I hope that it does not happen to you the same. I urge to that useais of first hour the one to you of 100 Ohms, that is the resistance that is expected the car by electrical specifications.

The cost of these pieces does not arrive at 1€, so calm;)

Before nothing the easy thing. Haceos with 2 piececitas that serve to join two cables without cutting neither to weld nor nothing, that is called derivador and that podreis to buy in a Carrefour by bags of 10/20. It is like a square bloqucito of 1cm of plastic by which two cables put and later you sink a metallic plaquita that bites cables both and automatically makes the joint, but with the denomination that I have given podreis him to pillar in any store of electronics, we will take black the cable red/and we will unite it clipping these two cables (which down I show), that is encuntran in the block of the direction of the steering wheel. In order to arrive at them it is necessary to clear 3 screws of the inferior part of the steering wheel (not the own steering wheel, but the embellecedor that covers all the steering wheel, happens through the control of lights, clean, etc…). Once cleared the screws we threw upwards of the part of supeiior and the one of inferior downwards without fear, that leaves single although we must be a little insistent.
Later we have to clear 2 screws but that is in another similar embellecedor to which we finished clearing but a little inside but. Before already podia to accede itself to the screws and was at sight, but it is necessary to do it by this order for qu lets remove it to us. Once cleared these two screws we threw downwards of that part and when one pushes out of position of its superor part we threw towards us. It is very easy to remove and the one to throw towards us is pq to remove hits it the emellecor of plastic that is in front of our knees when we are seated.
Although it seems a very liosa explanation is very very easy and in less than 1 minute habeis cleared the 2 plastic pieces.

Now, according to we watched the steering wheel from behind/down, we see the following thing, so we already know that cables we have to clip to take until our adapter of steering wheel: idea: Taken care of with clipping those that are not, since the rest is of cntrol of the Airbag and the horn;)
http://www.forocoches.com/galeria/data/4291/18779control_velocidad.jpg

Now the one comes to modify the control.

As we already have cleared all the embelecedores we see that to remove the order it is necessary to clear 1 screws like those of before it has by the frotal. We will have to turn the steering wheel until it lets to us accede to from the frontal. We unplugged the gray cable and we removed it sliding upwards, is very easy.

Once in the hand, we cleared the 2 screws that we will be in one of the faces and we opened it as if outside a box of shoes, throwing of the two parts of form simultaneously opposed, the same we will have to help us with a flat screwdriver to make handle, since the 2 only unions that present/display problems are the one that there is in the corners opposed to the screws, so we put the pequeñito flat screwdriver by the separation of both plastic and we helped ourselves. Tb is very easy.

Once opened we were with the part where the extended small wheel goes. That is the part that interests to us and from there we will have to make something similar to this. EYE, this is of the control of radio of a lagoon and it does not have anything almost to do in the form, but that serves to you like example as like locating the resistance.
http://www.forocoches.com/galeria/data/4291/18779manual8.jpg

And here the part comes where I leave you with a handspan of noses.

Mexplico. The modifications that there are to do in the control are bascias but very difficult to explain step by step and I could not make photos, although they had not clarified much either to you. These explanations are understood perfectly with the open control and in front of the eyes.

1. - To separate the 4 micro interrupting that we are going to use the circuitaje of the control. It is very easy with the soldering iron (considered time 2 minutes)

2. - As already we have 4 isolated pulsers with which we can do what us of the desire… because we see that each switch has 4 sideburns, two inwards (where he goes lodged ruedecita/rulillo black) and two outwards. Then the switch when we pressed it unites those two sideburns that go towards inside.

3. - VOL+, VOL- and MODE estan in that same face that we are watching and the MUTE has the pulser in the other face, but in half of where it goes lodged the black small wheel which already we have cleared we see 2 metallic squares very solitos very in half, because those are the contacts of the 2 sideburns of the pulser of back that we needed;)

4. - We united 1 leg of each one of the 4 pulsers. We preferably used sideburns of the resistance that we have bought to make the joint since it is but easy and as soon as it occupies space, that once closed is left the thing very dark.

5. - And now of each one of the free sideburns (of the 2 interiors and the 2 metallic cuadraditos), we to each other put to each one its resistance and all uniting to him. It is easy, by ejeplo:

SIDEBURN VOL+----------HEAD OF CATTLE 220--------|
SIDEBURN VOL- --------- HEAD OF CATTLE 100--------|----->COCHE
SIDEBURN MUTE ---------HEAD OF CATTLE 820--------|
SIDEBURN MODE----------BRIDGE--------| (there is no resistance here, is as if unieramos the 2 cables of the car)

ALL THE OTHER 4 PATILLAS=MASA --->COCHE

Each resistance go united by extermo to its pulser and by the other end to the rest of the resistance and all they arrive at the cable of the car.

And all the other sideburns go to the car tb by the other cable, as you see is very easy.

Then in the end we passed the cables that already habiamos clipped to the car underneath until arriving at the part of the control of the radio, we welded it we closed it so all and as abrimo and to run.

In order to test of the control in case all good has left us, I advise you that you hagais of polimetro/tester to measure the resistance who give the tie points that assume that they go until the car, to confirm that each button gives the resistance that must and to prove it in the car it is necessary to rearm the control neither to screw it to his site nor nothing. Soldais, colocais probais and when veais that everything rula as it must because cerrais everything.

Now I explain like operating completely without information with the R/L: shock:

LIMITOR
1. - To ignite the car
2. - To put the pulser in limitor
3. - To surpass 30 Km/h
4. - At the speed that is we pressed VEL+. Then we have established that speed to which we went as it limits maximum
5. - If we want to increase or to reduce the maximum speed of circulation we press VEL+ or VEL-. No matter how much we give VEL-, Km/h does not let to us limit less than 30. The maximum speed of regulation not as is, that would have it to indicate somebody that can see it in the screen pq has bought it or pq ahyan it activated.
6. - If we pressed CANCEL (MODE). It lets act the limitor and us it has memorizado the teniamos speed to which position the limitor.
7. - If we pressed RECALL (MUTE), it returns to us to establish the speed that teniamos establecia before giving CANCEL
8. - If it appears to us an urgency and we must run but of which we have the limitor we pressed the accelerator until the bottom and when we thought that we cannot go beyond, we will step on with decision and force, vereis as the car skips the limitation. The limitation follows activates but us we have jumped it and no longer it is necessary to continue being above until the bottom to continue accelerating. In the moneto in which the speed falls below the established one in the limitor, this it returns to be effective and we will not be able to exceed the established thing, only pisndo thoroughly or cancelling.
9. - To cancel, or we cleared the function with the button of the R/L or pressed CANCEL.

REGULATOR
1. - To ignite the car
2. - To put the pulser in limitor
3. - To surpass 30 Km/h
4. - At the speed that is we pressed VEL+. Then we have established the speed at which we want to stay without having to step on the accelerator
5. - To happen to raise that speed, is only necessary to press VEL+ or VEL-, vereis as the car only accelerates or lets acer it, is a very strange sensation;) If we give too many times him to VEL- and indicated to him to the car that takes less than to 30 Km/h, the regulator it is deactivated, it does not happen like with the limitor that no matter how much we give VEL-, leaves us in 30 Km/h.
6. - With CANCEL we let have the memoriza regulator and us the established speed that teniamos so that with
7. - button RECALL we pruned to recover it at any time (you remember, always to more than 30 km/h)
8. - At the moment in that we pressed CANCEL, the clutch, the brake or we change of position button R/L deactivates the regulator. The accelerator I create to remember that idiot remains or allows us to accelerate but, not it memory.

These two you complete lists of explanations come perfectly commented tb in the manual.

Good, that this finishes. Pardon not to have but photos of the installation but some put hands to the work will see that it is EASY EASY EASY and cheap.

Although of a little wood it is very easy to use the controls completely without information, you remember that whenever we pressed VEL+ or VEL- we are changing in relation of 2Km/h.

If teneis doubts or what is, idlas putting and will try/MOS to be solving, that pa that we are.

Pardon by the brick: (

AND To by your Limitor Regulator/! : twisted:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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